Rome Week 5

Ciao,
I just want to get it out fast....Oh, How I adore Rome.

The beginning of the week was a bit lonely and spent mostly in the
studio trying to figure out how to paint and draw...hmmm. One would
think that I could do it just fine already. But, I guess there is
always something new to learn. (If anyone knows a good method for
fixing watercolors on panel....let me know).

It's always nice to get emails from home about news and goings on. It
can sometimes be very isolating here. So whenever I hear from all of
you at home, it helps combat the loneliness that can sometimes settle
in.

I did get a chance to go back to the Capitoline Museums and draw from
the Roman replica of the Dying Gaul statue. It was beautiful.
Actually, I was incredibly lucky. When we arrived there was a film
crew in the next room. Almost right after I sat down to sketch the
statue, they moved to my room and kicked out all the tourists. But I
guess since I was sketching and in there for serious pursuits they
left me alone, and then proceeded to light the Gaul with several
spotlights. I had my very own lighting crew to get the specifics
down. It was fabulous; of course I also had an occasional audience.
It was nice not to have anyone getting into my line of vision for
once.

Thursday was a wet and rainy day. We stood out in it for nearly an
hour and a half studying just the Arch of Constantine upon the entry
into the Forum from the ancient Via Sacra. There is such a myriad of
styles of carving from Trajan's, Hadrian, and Constantine's eras that
it is an interesting lesson in sculptural styles.

From there we headed to the Church of San Clemente, one of the best
examples of Roman Building Recycling or Palimpsesting. At the bottom
most level, we were exploring a factory of some kind (thought to be
the mint of Imperial Rome) and a house from the 1st Century BC. In
the 3rd Century it had been turned into a Mythraic Temple (one of the
early mystery religions) and in the 5th Century it was all covered and
a basilica (church) was built on top of that which is now on the 3rd
level up as the 1st era had 2 stories). From there, in the 11th
century the 3rd and final layer was added as an updated church
(filling in the 5th c additions). There are some fabulously gilded
mosaics of the saints and Christ in the apse of the last level. I've
never actually seen any of this style. Building within the current
structure has continued throughout the last..oh...900 years or so,
with the addition of frescoes in the 15th c. and later. I think
though the best part of the tour was finding the fresco that really
was more of a political satire cartoon included with profanity in
Latin.

So today, I went on a tour of a Fattoria in (farm and winery) in
Tuscany, near Siena and Montalpulciano. This particular one is owned
and run solely by women; the only one in Italy. I have to say, they
make some really fabulous wines. We ate lunch at the restaurant and
had a pasta making lesson. It was well worth the excursion fee the
school charged just for the lunch alone. It was all farm /locally
raised/grown ingredients. WOW. I don't think I've ever had a better
roasted chicken. (Sorry Mom.)

It is also the little things that are constantly surprising me. Like
finding an Italian lesson when getting my cappuccino at the local bar.
All of the beautiful flower stands, who have there flowers displayed
for all to see. My favorite foods are constantly evolving...so far
suppli are still at the top. If ever there was something to make the
Atkins guy turn in his grave...it would be suppli (and potato pizza).
They are tomato rice balls stuffed with fresh mozzarella, then deep
fried. I think they were sent directly from heaven.
Then there is the incredible support for artists. For example my
roommate, the vegetarian, wanted to buy a shrimp to draw from the
seafood counter. Since she had never bought meat in her life, she
wanted me there for moral support and my language skills. When I
explained that she only wanted one shrimp for a model in drawing, he
actually gave it to her for free, and considering it was a jumbo prawn
at about 25 euro a kilo…not really a small thing!

As per usual, Rome is full of surprises. I can't wait to see what
else is in store….

Jenn

--
I want to live my life not by the regret of "what if", but by its
possibilities. -ME

What lies behind us and what lies before us are nothing compared to
what lies within us.
Ralph Waldo Emerson

Rome week 4

Dear Family and Friends,

This last week has been very eventful. I've discovered that my
Italian is good enough to get me through the hospital on my own
(Bronchitis, don't worry I didn't have an accident!) and to tell off a
florist in Campo de Fiori for being a HUGE jerk.

Most of the week was spent in bed, unfortunately. But there were some
significant things that have happened. I stood on the foundation of
the Temple of Jupiter, a temple built in the early days of Rome (BC),
and walked amongst some of the best sculpture in the world and
sketched quite a bit as well.

My research progresses and on that front we did the tour of the
American Academy and now have access to their library. Its a beautiful
17th century Palazzo on top of one of the 7 hills of Rome. Its an
amazing collection that I feel very priveledged to use. My status as
a graduate student got me in. I'm hoping it will be a temendous
resource for my art history research.

I found the perfect pair of boots and actually bought them as well. I
guess this will be my one splurge for the semester. I also got a
great steel on some really high end watercolors and found my new
favorite art supply store. All of this on an expedition into the
neighborhood south of me.

I also found out about the future of the MFA in Italy program. My
university has chosen to discontinue it. They will be keeping the
Corciano study abroad portion, however stating the reasons of cost,
are no longer going to offer Rome. As a result of this decision, I
have requested transfer for the full year next year to Washington, DC.
This decision makes everything I do here now very bittersweet, as I
know that I will not be returning to enjoy the bounty of Rome for
another semester.

However, I feel this will be the best decision for me in the long run.
I have chosed to forgo returning to Italy in the fall due to the poor
condition of the studios in Corciano and trying to move
internationally right before my final thesis semester is next to
insanity. I will also have the chance at scholarships I would not
otherwise have available. While this all logically sounds good, my
heart hurts a little with the decisions.

So....if y'all were going to try to make it across the pond, I'd
better do it soon if I were you. I am going to try to stay as long as
I can this summer without completely running out of available funds.
And in the meantime, I'm going to try to soak up as much of La Dolce
Vita as possible here in Rome.

I hope this finds you all well and happy. Hope to hear from you soon.
And fyi, you are probably seeing more of the Olympics than I am. :(

Jenny

--
I want to live my life not by the regret of "what if", but by its
possibilities. -ME

What lies behind us and what lies before us are nothing compared to
what lies within us.
Ralph Waldo Emerson

Rome week 3

I would like to enter this email by just saying how lucky I feel to be
in Rome. After the experiences last semester, I truly appreciate the
things that I have here. I love Rome. It is a fabulous city that is
constantly surprising me.

I found a kosher butcher who was extremely nice and the customers were
even friendly with Becca and I. Becca said that its the best
experience she's had in a shop so far, though the funny thing is she
is a vegetarian. The great thing is that its within walking distance.
I'm hoping that the laundry place is just as nice.

So far I absolutely love my classes. Last week we toured the Campus
Martius in my art history class, found the place were Caesar was
killed (now a cat sanctuary), the Pompey theatre outline, the Temple
of Venus (and the funny woman who now lives there), did an
introduction of Pantheon, Piazza Navona, the original gaming and field
exercise site for ancient Romans, and hmmmm...several old temples, and
the best coffee place in Rome.

Drawing class was spent at Santa Maria in Trastevere piazza in a cafe
across from the church. I sat there for over two hours sipping the
best cinnamon cappuccino of my life, sketching, and not believing that
I was actually in class. The best thing is that we had sat there so
long that the waiter didn't believe it and thought we hadn't paid for
our drinks. I then got a chance to try out some original roman
arguing techniques. I did pretty well, and they finally believed me.

I've switched up to a higher level of conversation class, which is the
only Italian class period that I was able to fit into my schedule. My
professor says that my Italian is doing very well and that I shouldn't
have a lot of problems without taking a regular grammar class and if I
do, she'll help me with it. This is good news. For a while I thought
I wasn't going to be able to take anything do to my regular class
schedule.

I've found that saying the words graduate student actually have some
weight. I'd asked our head of library services to help finding some
obscure technical manuals and the minute I said the magic words
"graduate student" suddenly he was going to try to get me into the
American Academy's library. So far, I think he's going to do it, it
doesn't hurt that his wife is also the librarian there either. Yeah!

I've found the Porta Portese Markets on Sunday mornings are so far the
best way to get things that I need for the studio or home. I've
gotten some killer deals on linen for painting and fabric for dividing
the studios and am now in search of a great pair of boots. The Porta
Portese is the largest flea/open air market I've ever seen. It first
took me over two hours to walk it when the vendors were first setting
up. The best thing is they are always willing to bargain.

I've hit a Manet show, Piazza del Popolo is on the schedule today with
some fabulous Caravaggio's (one of my favorite painters), and maybe a
quick trip to the English bookshop for some reference materials in the
studio.

So I will leave you here, so I can go get ready for today's adventures.

Jenny

--
I want to live my life not by the regret of "what if", but by its
possibilities. -ME

What lies behind us and what lies before us are nothing compared to
what lies within us.
Ralph Waldo Emerson

Roman Palimpsest

Hmmm.

What an interesting concept. Its the title of my Art History class.
Wiped out and written over. History. Rome. All in one. It will be
interesting to try to keep up with Lila. I expect that unless you are
a genius and running marathons and have the hearing of a dog, then it
is going to be difficult to catch everything in her lecturs. Just
today with only 3 students there were passages that I was unable to
catch due to the background noises of Rome. But I have a feeling that
I will absolutely enjoy the class. This is what I wanted. I wanted
to dig deep and delve into what is here. Emerse myself into the
histories, the art, and the passions of Rome and Italy. The
independent project will be interesting. I am looking forward to
finding a topic. This semester is what I feel grad school should be
like. Grueling, challenging, stimulating, and an absolute riot.

Rome Week 1

Dear family and friends,

So the first week of Rome has been an adjustment period. To all the
noise, people, traffic, time zones, my bohemian apartment, and the
being back in the midst of Italian language.

I feel as if I have gained not one roommate but three. Our garden
entrance is shared by the apartment next door where there are two
really great guys. Oscar and Robert. So far Robert is still at home
in America working and visiting family though he returns soon. Oscar
has kept it lively around here with his insanity and outrageousness.
I have a feeling this semester will be very interesting.

We moved into the studios last night. They are going to be very big
with only six of us. But the greatest news about the studio is I have
my own electrical plugs, walls, and the best of all....HEAT!!!!! It
was actually warm in there. What a luxury. There is no computer
access there that I know of. But the university has a BIG computer
lab with the most up to date equipment and I have my laptop with wi-fi
in my apartment. So look forward to better contact from this part of
the world.

So far I have found the school here itself to beat all of my
expectations, so unlike last semester. I was greeted by name (from
only one visit last semester) and given explanations on everything
that needed to happen. I even had a real orientation that covered the
basics plus some. I've found out that both my drawing and art history
class will be on site and most of thesis class will be as well. When
I consider all of this, I feel very fortunate this semester.

I will be going to Bologna for the Fiera either Friday or Saturday.
It is a huge international contemporary art fair sponsored by
galleries and museums. I'm very excited for that. And I think now
that I've lost myself and found my way back in my own neighborhood I
can also do so now in the Historical Center. (I live a little outside
the Aurelian Walls In Monteverde Vecchio).

Anyways, I will leave you all with this for now. I look forward to
hearing from you one way or another. Take care!

Jenny is now in Rome

Hey all,

Just a quick update to let you know that I am safely in Rome now. Jet
lag is taking is usual toll, but I have a comfy bed here in my new
apartment and I'm enjoying just being here so far. It was definately
nice not to have to wait at the airport for 6 hours this time waiting
for all the group to get in. I just put my two big bags in storage
for the night and headed to the apartment. I went back and got the
big ones today then for a little stroll for much needed groceries etc.
Tomorrow I plan on heading up to the University pretty early and
seeing what there is to see for the semester.

Expect more updates soon. I apologize for the mass email, but its
easiest until y'all start writing individually :) So...hope to hear
from you soon.

Boun Natale e Felice Anno

well,

Its my last night in Italy for a month. Final crits are over, the
studio that should be condemned is torn down (well at least all the
partitions and tarps), my bags are packed and stored from Corciano to
Rome. I dropped a suitcase off at my new apartment underneath the
villa for storage until January. And I'm ready to say hi to the
States for a month (after a small tangent to Scotland for a few days).
Its been a long and eventful semester. I have been successful
personally and in classes. """read"""" I might actually have
understood western aesthetic philosophies. At least I convinced the
prof I did. And despite a little turmoil in the final crit for my
semesters work, that went well too. I can leave saying I'm proud of
myself for this semester. I look forward to the next semester in Rome
where even the school is changing and I have an entirely new city and
I would venture, even culture, to explore.

I hope to see some of you soon in the states. If I don't, I hope you
have a wonderful Holiday Season. As they say here: Boun Natale e
Felice Anno.

Ciao a doppo

Update from Italy, Midterms are OVER!

Hey all,

So midterms came and went this week. I finally had my first crit, as
the last one was spent in the ER after a graceful attempt to walk down
wet tile stairs. I'm not too sure how I feel about either yet. I had
my 3 day take home mid-term in criticism and finished under the
deadline by 15 minutes. Whew. While my brain is still recovering
from the mush that became of it while trying to figure out the
relationships between philosophy, art, and politics, I do actually
feel smarter. Though I did look like the picture below afterwards.
And I do have to say that that was the hardest test I've taken to
date. I now think that Dr. Folkestad's classes were a cake walk.

The weather here is definately changing into fall. Walking up and
down the hill the air is crisp and smells of wood smoke. The fog has
been rolling in around 3 pm and sticking until 9 am or so. It reminds
me alot of Ellensburg. Though there have been some pretty spectacular
sunsets. Example attached from this week. Though I have to say the
cooler damp weather does nothing for trying to line dry clothes. The
studio is become colder and colder, I'm getting used to not feeling my
fingers. I guess its part of the whole experience.

I'm going to try to make it to Florence and Fabriano this week.
Fabriano for the paper museum and some good paper samples for
printmaking and Florence becuase there are decent art supply stores
for inks and another trip to La Specola for some for sketching
studies.

The Venice Bienalle is still spinning through my head and it was a
great trip. There was lots of work there to ponder and be influenced
by. Not to mention being able to be literaly surrounded by work. I'm
just thankful that I made it to the last days of the Lucian Freud
exhibit. There was also the added plus of experiencing Piazza San
Marco and the duelly orchestras at night. Its magical, is all I have
to say.

Anyways, just a quick update on studies in Italy. Hope all is well at
home, write soon.

Jenn

photos of my trip to pompeii are available!

You can see my photos of pompeii at
http://photos.yahoo.com/rennyren76. Enjoy!

--
I want to live my life not by the regret of "what if", but by its
possibilities. -ME

What lies behind us and what lies before us are nothing compared to
what lies within us.
Ralph Waldo Emerson

Update from Italy.

Hey all!

Life in Italy is grand....cold and chilly, but going well. We are
enjoying the last days of sunshine before the notorious fog sets in.
We were in Pompeii last weekend which was fabulous. I have a whole
view of the culture of that time. I guess Vegas is not a new concept.
The culture of Eros and Bacchanalian pleasures as they say was very
prevalent. At the same time I was recovering from a bad case of
bronchitis, but the Italian medicines are pretty great. Can't say the
same for the doctors bedside manner...but hey, one can't have it all
good.

Next weekend is the much anticipated chocolate festival. I'm already
signed up to help carve one of the 1\2 ton blocks of chocolate.
Aparantly there are mobs crying for the chocolate as it comes off the
block. Even the elderly push kids out of the way I guess. But there
are also chocolate tastings the next day. They say by the end of the
festival, the entire town is covered in chocolate. (I know my sister
is going to be very jealous).

Classes are progressing. I'm starting to gain a better understanding
of western aesthetic philosophy, though at times I find myself reading
passages over and over just to get one phrase through my thick skull.
I have my first big critique next week, which I'm getting nervous
about it , but so far no one has really be slaughtered per se. So
cross your fingers for me. I did an 8 hour session of printing today
and managed to get 10 decent prints out of 21. I feel like it was a
success.

We are heading to Venice for the Biennial (Bi-annual international art
exhibition) at the end of October. I'm going to try to stay at least
an extra day from the group since I don't have classes until Tuesday.
I'm hoping to do some night photography while I'm there.

Anyways...that is the update from Italy for now. Hope all is well at
home. Please let me know how you are all doing.

Jenny

Italy update.

Conditions here in Italy are such that this is the best way that I can communicate at the moment. We have one very old computer that is intermittent in its access to the net and a donated laptop that is only slightly more reliable. So needless to say, unless I go to Perugia or Ellera (the next town over) and pay for internet, this is the best that I can do. But that does not excuse any of you from writing me. My inbox has been very empty lately….hint hint.

Its three weeks since I've been here and so far so good. I'm starting to get into the program and am falling for printmaking even more. I haven't stretched a single canvas yet. Partly due to the lack of decent tools that we have here. Most of you that know me with power tools, you will be proud to know that I made a perfectly squared canvas stretcher. The only problem is that I now need wood putty to fill in the corners because the saw cuts at a diagonal down……I have ¼ inch gaps on the outside of the stretcher. The good news is they do sell metal corner braces here, because there is no way that glue would stay in the gaps. I'll be stretching this weekend though; never fear there will be paint flying soon.

My work has already changed dramatically, partly due to the trip to Florence that we took last weekend. The program went to the Gori Collection (a sculpture park) outside of Florence. It is an 19 ^th century romantic garden (55 acres or so….) behind a country palazzo now owned by Mr. Gori, a textiles magnate. He has commissioned big name sculptors to come in and do site specific sculpture to be incorporated into the property. It was beautiful. The hike was challenging though. I feel proud that I completed it. Though I did splurge and go buy a little camp stool for the hike during stops to study each sculpture. Its one of my best purchases here so far. I love using it in the studio.

I convinced the program director to drop me and those who wanted to go at the nearest train station and we headed into Florence for the night. It was great to be back, though I still think its way too full of tourists. But I did get some decent art supply shopping in with the purchase of some beautiful papers. I also got a great wool scarf in the San Lorenzo market for dirt cheap. I spent a good 5 hours sketching anatomically correct wax models of knees (go figure) in La Specola museum on Saturday. I'm hoping that it will inform my work greatly. I am planning another trip back soon to study the muscles of the leg. The staff there was also very supportive in finding artists studying from their models. They provided us with chairs to sit and study further in. There are all kinds of animals there. I think there are 4 rooms of birds alone. In some ways seeing all the animals that have been stuffed and put on display is odd and creepy. (I couldn't look at the owls, it reminded me too much of the one in my grandparents house)

The program itself is a mixed bag. There are many things that I think could be improved quite easily, but I had indications of it when I came. Communication does not seem to be a priority with some. The levels of graduate work are also very mixed and I feel confident in my skills. We had an excellent visiting artist last week the really helped with a lot of insight for me at least. I think the program will be made in the most part by visiting artists and my thesis professor for this semester. I honestly hope that he gets to return. Up until this year, the program has been taught by recent graduates and an intermittent program director. But this year, at least for the grad students, we actually have some professional level professors. The studios are a mixed bag. They are large, though there is next to no natural light and fluorescent lighting. The printmaking studio gets its power by an extension cord strung through the window from the main studios. The lighting consists of parking lot lights that are hooked to that extension cord. Despite all of these quirks, I do believe that I made the right choice. I think that this will be a tremendous growth opportunity for me.

The weather is starting to turn chilly here. There is talk of an early winter. But for now we are all enjoying the sunshine as it comes and speaking of sunshine….I'm gonna go find some. Ciao! Hope to hear from y'all soon!

i'm including a few photos of the house. the one looking down the hill the row of three houses, mine is the middle. The rest are my room and the view from my room.

Jenny

Settling in

Corciano is small. Really small. On top of a really big hill. I'm live half way to the bottom of that hill. I hike up to the top of the hill everyday. To the studio below the parking lot. In an old building that overlooks the valley, the olive grove below, and my house half way down the hill. The studios are dusty and musty, with rough rock walls.

Bags are zipped, sort of

Well at least one is.  the other 3 are in almost complete packing state. Just a few items to try fit here and there.  It will be interesting that is for sure.  We will leave for Seattle tomorrow, stay the night and I will fly out of the country in approximately 31 hours.  I think I might have packed too much.  I don't know.  One never knows I guess.  But still, I've got art supplies and clothes, a few pair of shoes.  Those that know me would be extremely proud in my control on the shoe issue.  I guess there are a lot of should coulda woulda on time and money for this trip, but I will have to make due with what I have packed.  Some people just look at me in amazement.  Its hard to compact your life into just a few suitcase with a blank slate looming ahead.

 

Today I hid in the bathroom while I had a mild panic attack.  It was better for all that I did.  Kimiko then took me to dinner where a monster margarita helped the nerves tremendously.  I'll have to remember that next time.  Thanks Kimiko.  Well back to the bits and pieces.  I don't want to leave anything behind.  Least of all my passport.  :D  Laters!

--
I want to live my life not by the regret of "what if", but by its possibilities. -ME

What lies behind us and what lies before us are nothing compared to what lies within us.
Ralph Waldo Emerson
 

Last push, I can do this

There is nothing like gettting the flu, having 3 dental appoinments, a physical torture appointment, and trying to pack in 2 days to create stress more. Wow. I just hope to god I survive these next couple days. So what really woke me up was the flu at 3 am. Nice.

I just keep thinking....Italy.

Its 3am

Well, as the title states. It 3 am. I came home went to lay down for a minute, rest from work and woke up at 3 am. I never even heard my roomates moving around. Now I'm up, contemplating working on my commission, packing some more, or laying in bed trying to fall back asleep like I have for the last hour. Its nuts really. I have so little time left in portland and I spend my hours at work and awake in the dead of night. I think I should do some packing. Though Ella, the cat, is awake to keep me company. She came in to join me around 1 am. Though she has alternately tried to sneak under the covers, attack my hands, and snuggle. Crazy cat. Well its looking like there will be no sleep for the wicked here, so I might as well start packing something. Though at 3 am tyring to pack something quietly is going to be a challenge.

Found out today that its going to cost anywhere between $120 and $500 to ship my paint to myself because aparently TSA won't allow me to bring them with me in my checked luggage. Wish that my questions would have been answered so that I could have been more prepared for this.

Ah, to return again! 

Here is a small description (au) of where I will be living this fall.

Corciano (Fall)
In addition to working in the studios, we will see the magnificent cathedrals in Florence, Siena, and Venice; Giotto in nearby Assisi; Raphael and Perugino in our neighboring town of Perugia and the smaller hill towns of Umbria; Medival Carvings, major works by Michelangelo-Donatello- Titian-FraAngelico-Bernini-Botticeli-Martini-Lorenzetti-Bellini-Caravaggio- Leonardo-Mantegna-Lippi-Masaccio-Ghiberti-Signorelli...

Corciano is a quiet, perfectly preserved 1000 year-old medieval hill town in the Umbrian countryside of central Italy. Our studios are surrounded by olive groves, vineyards, fields, and farmland. To the east we see the Appennine Mountains, beyond the nearby Tiber River valley. To the west are the hills of Umbria and Tuscany, as well as Lago Trasimeno, the largest lake on the boot of Italy.

Midway between Florence and Rome, we are even closer to Assisi, Siena, Arezzo, Cortona, Orvieto, Perugia, Todi, Spoleto and many other fascinating cities. The medieval piazza, narrow cobblestone streets and centuries old buildings are the heart of this culturally active hill town founded by the Etruscans (before the Romans) in the heart of Italy. Because of its central location, excellent public transportation and easy access to the railway and bus stations, Corciano is a perfect base from which to see the rest of Italy.

While Corciano is a quiet hill town in the countryside, less than five miles away is the bustling capital of Umbria, the incredibly beautiful city of Perugia, where one will find the National Gallery of Umbria, the National Archaeological museum of Umbria, the museum of the Accademia di Belle Arti, numerous Medieval and Renaissance churches, Etruscan and Roman ruins, and works by Piero della Francesca, Perugino, Duccio, Cimabue, Raphael and many others (frequent public transportation is located only steps away from the studios).

For those interested, you can read more about my program here:

http://www.american.edu/academic.depts/cas/art/studio/index.html

My dog Skyler. I'll miss him. Mom take good care, throw the ball LOTS. 

Welcome to "something with hamburger". Over half my life I have heard that as a response to the question " Mom, what is for dinner?". Dinner is about to change drastically for me. It will be set not around Mom and dad's dinner table, but in a foreign land with new and adventurous meals. Granted, Italian may not be adventurous for some, but when you've heard "something with hamburger" half your life, it really is.